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Italy · The food guide

Rome.

Rome's food is unfussy. Three or four ingredients per plate, all of them perfect, no decorative herbs. The cuisine has resisted globalization in a way that surprises people coming from Paris or Barcelona — you still cannot get cappuccino after 11 AM at a serious bar, and the city's signature pasta dishes are still made the same way they were in the 1940s. That conservatism is the point. Eat at family-run trattorias in residential neighborhoods, follow the seasons (carciofi alla giudia in winter, fiori di zucca in summer), and accept that Italians eat dinner late — 20:30 minimum.


Where to focus

Four neighbourhoods to anchor a few days of eating

Testaccio

Built around the old slaughterhouse, so the food is offal-forward: coda alla vaccinara, trippa alla romana, pajata. The market is excellent for an early lunch.

Trastevere

Touristy but the locals still eat here, especially on weeknights. Look for trattorias one street off the main piazzas; the menus get shorter and the food gets better.

Monti

Slower and more residential than the centro. Wine bars, modern pasta places, gelato that doesn't have artificial colors.

Prati

Across the river from the Vatican. Good supplì stands, the original Bonci pizza, and surprisingly little tourist trap-ness.


What to eat

The dishes the city is known for

  1. 01

    Cacio e pepe

    Pasta with pecorino and black pepper. Three ingredients; technique is everything. Most tourist places get it wrong.
  2. 02

    Carbonara

    Egg yolk, pecorino, guanciale, pepper. No cream. Ever.
  3. 03

    Amatriciana

    Tomato, guanciale, pecorino. Usually with bucatini. The other Roman classic.
  4. 04

    Supplì

    Fried rice balls with mozzarella core. Eaten standing up at the pizzeria al taglio.
  5. 05

    Carciofi alla giudia

    Jewish-Roman fried artichokes, in season roughly January through April. Order them at any old kosher restaurant in the Ghetto.
  6. 06

    Maritozzo

    Sweet brioche stuffed with unsweetened whipped cream. A Roman breakfast, sometimes eaten at midnight.

Practical notes

Meal timing, tipping, payment

Coffee culture is strict: cappuccino in the morning only, espresso any time, both at the counter for €1–1.50. Lunch 13:00–15:00, dinner 20:30 onwards. Tipping is not expected; rounding up is enough. Many of the best places close on Sundays or Mondays.

Bookable food tours

Updated 2026-05-16

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